I’d never heard of Mount Kaputar National Park before, but it popped up on the map while I was searching for things to do near the Warrumbungles. It’s not exactly a hotspot for tourists, which worked in our favor—five days of spring holiday hiking with barely a soul in sight. Bliss.
The walking tracks here take you through an ancient landscape dotted with volcanic rock formations, craggy peaks, and quiet valleys. And the wildlife? Everywhere. Red-necked wallabies, eastern grey kangaroos, parrots, and the occasional wallaroo were our most frequent hiking buddies. (Oh, and let’s not forget the snakes basking on the rocky plateaus. Because of course.)
Mount Kaputar sits about 50 km east of Narrabri. I’d say it’s in the middle of nowhere, but by Australian standards, it’s really not. Still, it feels like it. It’s roughly a seven-hour drive from both Coffs Harbour and Sydney, and just shy of eight from Brisbane—equally inconvenient from all directions. This, combined with the park’s scorching summer temps, explains why such a stunning place often feels eerily abandoned. But hey, that’s Australia for you. I certainly love it this way!
How to access Mount Kaputar National Park?
You’ll get there via Narrabri and the Newell Highway—one of the dullest stretches of road in existence, featuring endless cotton fields, grain silos, and the occasional mine.
The park has three distinct regions: the Kaputar Plateau, Sawn Rocks, and Waa Gorge. Most of the hiking trails and lookouts are in the Kaputar Plateau. To get there, take Old Gunnedah Road out of Narrabri, then switch to Kaputar Road. It’s unsealed and winding but perfectly doable in a 2WD—though a high-clearance car makes for a far less bumpy and more delightful experience.
Sawn Rocks and Waa Gorge are north of the plateau, but you’ll need to return to the Newell Highway to reach them. Attempting to see all three regions in one day? Bad idea—unless you enjoy spending your day trapped in a car instead of actually exploring.
How long should you stay in Mount Kaputar National Park?
While the Kaputar Plateau has the most to offer—trails, lookouts, campgrounds—the Sawn Rocks and Waa Gorge regions are fascinating in their own right. I’d recommend spending at least two days in the park, but three to four days is the sweet spot. Got five or six days? Even better. That way, you can slow down, enjoy long morning walks, and unwind with evening campfires (assuming they’re allowed, of course).
The highlights of Mount Kaputar National Park
Take the Mount Kaputar scenic drive to the summit
Driving up Kaputar Road to Mount Kaputar’s summit is actually a delightful and scenic experience—especially if you have a high-clearance car and don’t have to stress over the occasional big bumps.
The summit sits at 1,510 meters above sea level, and the drive up treats you to incredible rock formations and scenic roadside lookouts. Be sure to stop at Doug Sky Lookout and West Kaputar Rock Lookout along the way. Doug Sky Lookout, in particular, is magical near sunset—you can see as far as the Warrumbungles from there.
The stunning Governor Lookout is a few steps away from the carpark. The longer walking track was closed during our visit.
At the end of the road, a short staircase leads up to the Mount Kaputar Summit Lookout, where you can soak in a stunning 360-degree view over the park. Expect to see the Grattai Wilderness and Moree to the north, the Liverpool Ranges and Boomi Creek to the east, and Ningadhun and the endless western plains stretching to the horizon.
Climb up to Yulludunida volcano
at the end of the marked trail
A short but sweaty hike to my favorite view in the park! This track is a steep climb up through woodland, leading to a volcanic ridge—but the real fun starts where the official trail ends. From there, you can scramble up the bluff’s steep side to reach the summit.
Once at the top, you’re rewarded with an incredible 360-degree panorama, plus a perfect vantage point over the Yulludunida Crater (which, fun fact, isn’t an actual crater but a ring dyke). If you’re up for a challenge, this one’s a must-do!
Yulludunida track info:
- Trailhead: Green Camp carpark
- Length: the formed track is 3 km return, reaching the summit adds about 500 m
- See the trail map here (though the final scramble is unmarked on trail maps).
Marvel at the Sawn Rocks
About half an hour from Narrabri, a short drive along the Newell Highway and then Killarney Gap Road brings you to the Sawn Rocks car park and picnic area. From here, a short, mostly flat walking track leads you along a well-maintained path to the stunning Sawn Rocks lookout.
This rock formation is one of the most fascinating in the park, featuring a geological phenomenon known as “organ-piping.” The name comes from the way perfectly shaped pentagonal rock columns run down the cliff face, formed by lava cooling slowly and evenly over time.
Beyond the lookout, the path continues down to the dry creek bed, where you’ll find enormous pentagon-shaped boulders that have broken off over the years. Walking among them feels almost otherworldly—like stepping into a giant’s playground.
We visited Sawn Rocks after exploring Waa Gorge and arrived late in the afternoon, which turned out to be the perfect time. The golden sunlight illuminated the rock face beautifully, making it a dream spot for photography.
Back at the picnic area, you’ll find free electric BBQs and sheltered picnic tables—perfect for a relaxing break before or after your walk.
Sawn Rocks walking track info:
- Trailhead: Sawn Rocks carpark
- Length: 1.5 km return
- See the trail map here.
Get adventurous in Waa Gorge
Waa Gorge is in one of the park’s most remote regions, and getting there takes a bit of effort. It’s almost an hour’s drive from Sawn Rocks—not because of the distance, but due to the rugged road conditions. The journey takes you along an unsealed road through farmland, crossing a few creeks along the way. A high-clearance vehicle is a must! But honestly, casually driving through creeks feels like such a classic Aussie adventure. (Maybe that just shows how much of a newbie I am, but I still get a thrill every time we splash through one!)
I wouldn’t say this is a must-do at all costs, but for us, it was absolutely worth it—especially since we tackled the Waa Gorge hike, which leads deep into the stunning Grattai Wilderness Area.
The picnic area is a bit dusty, but it does have composting toilets. There’s really only one trail to follow: the Mill-bullah Walking Track. It’s an easy 500-meter stroll through the woodland, ending at the Mill-bullah waterholes. These might not always be full, but after heavy rain, I can only imagine the waterfalls roaring! That said, the real highlight here isn’t the water—it’s the striking, colorful rock formations that look like nature’s version of a giant slide (though definitely don’t try sliding down!).
But the best part? The Waa Gorge Walking Track continues past the waterholes, leading you on a breathtaking scramble through the Grattai Wilderness Area. This section is unformed, but since you follow the (mostly dry) creek bed, navigation isn’t too tricky—though an offline map is always a good idea. This part of the hike is best suited for experienced bushwalkers, and sturdy shoes are a must! Be prepared for some rock hopping and a final scramble up the dry creek bed. But trust me, as the towering rock walls close in around you, it’s nothing short of mesmerizing.
Waa Gorge walking track info:
- Trailhead: Waa Gorge carpark
- Length: 2.5 km return (1 km return to the Mill-bullah waterholes)
- See the trail map here.
Keep your eyes (and ears!) open for wildlife
Mount Kaputar National Park is a classic Aussie wilderness—quiet on the human front but bustling with wildlife. It’s home to an array of adorable marsupials, including Eastern Grey Kangaroos, Red-necked Wallabies, Swamp Wallabies, Brush-tailed Rock Wallabies, and Common Wallaroos. Keep an eye out, especially in the early morning or late afternoon, when they’re most active.
Look up, and you might spot birds of prey soaring overhead or flashes of color from Crimson Rosellas and King Parrots perched in the trees. On sunny days, lizards love to bask on the warm rock plateaus of the Kaputar Plateau, while water dragons can often be found hanging out near the creeks.
Stay at the Bark Hut campground
If you’re looking for the perfect base to explore the national park, camping inside it is the way to go. Not just because it’s budget-friendly, but because it’s peaceful and packed with wildlife encounters—think birds serenading you in the morning and shy wallabies dropping by to say hello.
We stayed at Bark Hut Campground, and honestly? We loved it. With only 12 campsites nestled under towering trees, it has this cozy, intimate feel. Sure, there’s not much privacy between sites, but that wasn’t an issue—because we practically had the place to ourselves.
Now, let’s talk amenities. For a remote spot, Bark Hut feels surprisingly fancy. There’s an open-air amenities block with hot showers (luxury!), flush toilets, and even electric BBQs under shelter. Plus, picnic tables and rubbish bins—so no need to pack out your trash.
One thing to note: Bark Hut sits at around 1,100 meters elevation, which means chilly nights in early spring and late autumn—and if you visit in winter, you might even wake up to snow. Pack accordingly!
Best time to visit Mount Kaputar
It’s not quite the Australian outback, but it sure gives off that vibe. Summers here? Brutal. Think scorching heat, bone-dry air, and nowhere to cool off—no rivers, lakes, or swimming holes in sight. Unless you enjoy feeling like a lizard on a hot rock, I’d skip a summer visit.
We went in September, and the weather was perfect for hiking. The sweet spot for visiting is late April to early October, when temperatures are much more forgiving. That said, winters at this elevation can get seriously cold, with temps dropping below freezing—and yes, even snow sometimes.
If you’re camping, May and September hit the Goldilocks zone: cool enough for cozy campfires, but not so cold you wake up as a human popsicle.
Have good quality, responsibly sourced food for the trail
Where to stay?
If you love camping, Bark Hut and Dawsons Spring campgrounds on the Kaputar Plateau are great options—both come with hot showers and flush toilets. Dawsons Spring even has a few cozy cabins if you prefer a little extra comfort.
Not a fan of camping? Narrabri is the best place to base yourself while exploring Mount Kaputar National Park. The Kaputar Motel offers a range of rooms, an outdoor pool, and the option to add breakfast to your stay.
For a more secluded escape, check out Riverside Farm Retreat in Eulah. It’s just outside of town, surrounded by nature, and offers comfy rooms or cottages for a relaxing stay.
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